A Digital Detox Weekend in Scotland: the Elgol Version

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A Digital Detox on the south coast of Skye

Friday afternoon, two hours out of Inverness, you cross the Skye Bridge and keep going until Broadford. The phone, which has been telling you the estimated time of arrival to the minute since you left the motorway, starts buffering slightly. By Loch Slapin it may give up entirely. Blà Bheinn is on your right. Loch Scavaig is below you. Thirteen miles after the turn you are in Elgol and – for many – the phone says ‘No Service’.

A digital detox weekend in Scotland involves a very deliberate decision. You put your phone in the glove box. You sign a contract with yourself, ‘no phones’… unless of emergency!

Elgol is a place where many international phones won’t reliably connect, because there is no mast that reaches here with any reliability. You could hold the phone out of the window of your room and it might pick up one bar for a minute. Or it might not. There is wifi, if you choose to use it, but why bother. You couldn’t be further away from the ‘real world’, than you are in Elgol. Lean into it.

The rules, such as they are

There aren’t any. Nobody takes your phone. Wi-Fi is free in the house, and it is reliable, so if you have to answer an email at nine on Saturday morning, you can. But signal from the road outside onwards is thin, and at the harbour it is thinner, and on the walk to Camasunary there is none. You will look at your phone less on your own, without being told to, within about four hours of arriving. This is where the detox begins. Humans have become anxious to know what is going on elsewhere, at the expense of what is going on in front of us and within us. The outside world gets in the way, the bad news from afar can ruin a perfectly beautiful moment. Skye can provide the perfect opportunity to disconnect and reconnect with yourself, with nature, with local people.

What Friday looks like

Check-in is 4pm. If you came through Inverness after breakfast and took the drive steadily, you are at Coruisk House between three and five. There are four rooms in the main house. Two cottages next door. The fire is lit in the dining room by four in autumn and winter. A cup of tea in front of you within about a minute of sitting down.

Dinner is at seven.with one sitting and six tables, so the dining room starts as it means to go on: nobody is getting up to catch a nine-o’clock train somewhere else. You have nowhere to be. You have nobody to message.

What is on the menu depends on what landed at the pier that morning. Iain builds the four courses around what Skye is doing that week. In practice this means langoustines from Loch Scavaig creels one night, Sconser scallops the next, hogget or lamb or venison for a main. The bread was homemade, baked that morning.

You sit down at seven. You are still there at ten. At no point does a phone need to come out.

Saturday: a walk, a boat, or neither

There are a few options, pick one today, one tomorrow. You do not need to rush through all of them. The whole point is that you stop rushing between 10 things in a day.

Option one: the Camasunary walk. Over the Am Mam pass with the Cuillin ridge in front of you and down to Camasunary bay, where the Abhainn nan Leac river runs out into the sea. The new bothy is rebuilt and is worth a look. You turn round at the beach and walk back. Six kilometres or so. Boggy in places. Sheep. There is no reliable signal that the walk takes most of the morning if you walk at a steady pace and eat a sandwich at the bothy.

Option two: the Misty Isle Bot Trips. Kenny and Seumas MacKinnon’s family boat from Elgol pier to the shore of Loch Coruisk, three hours including an hour and a half ashore at the lochside. The boat runs in settled weather through to October and on reduced occasional sailings in winter. You can go around Loch Coruisk, stand on the slabs at the north end, and come back on the same boat. You’ll see seals on the way, and sometimes a white-tailed eagle, dolphins and puffins if you are lucky. What you do not do on the boat: check your phone, bring a camera to avoid the temptation.

Option three: neither. Read in front of the fire. Walk out the front door and walk down to the pier, and along the rocky beachfront with a spectacular view of the pointed peaks of the Cuillin, come back home and relax. Dinner again at seven. Some readers come for exactly this.

The phone thing

Mobile signal on most networks at Coruisk House: intermittent one bar. At the harbour: nothing reliable. On the walks: nothing. On the top of Blà Bheinn: sometimes a clear signal because you are 928 metres above sea level and line-of-sight to distant masts.

The Wi-Fi in the house works well. If you are running a business and you genuinely cannot disconnect for two days, you can answer. If you do not open it, nothing opens. Most guests report that within 24 hours they stop checking. A few are uncomfortable for an afternoon and then settle in. A handful, to be honest, do not do well with such disconnection. That is useful to know before you book.

A practical note: download your map before you arrive. Google Maps lets you save areas offline. OS Maps is also good. If you have a hire car with built-in sat-nav that updates from the phone, update before Broadford. Though, it’s hard to get lost on a single track road, just keep going and you’ll find us as you enter Elgol.

What you actually do when you stop looking

Most guests end up on the same rhythm by Saturday night. Slow breakfast and coffee. Walk in the morning, afternoon exploring nearby. Nap before dinner. Read or sip a cocktail in front of the fire. Longer relaxed dinners and off to their rooms for a night of deep sleep.

You are not curing anything. The week’s emails are still there on Monday. What the weekend does is give you two full days of a different pace, somewhere the pace is enforced largely by geography rather than by willpower. Guests book two nights and wish they could extend to three when they realise, time themselves with their loved one is better than the noise of the outside world.

Sunday and the drive home

Check-out is 10.30. Breakfast at around nine. If the weather is settled, a short stop in Torrin on the way out to look at the Red Hills across Loch Slapin. Broadford has a Co-op if you need supplies for the drive south. From there it is five hours back to Glasgow, six to Edinburgh, seven to Newcastle. Most people put off opening the email apps until they readjust to life outside of Elgol.

You may not go home transformed. You’ll go home better rested than any recent weekend you can remember.